When I was 14, my mother insisted that I move to Mexico for 3 months instead of going to summer camp with my friends. I tried to convince her that it would put stress on my social life if I couldn’t make friends at camp the summer before high school, but she was firm in her decision. I needed to know my roots.
As I remembered, my Grandmother was a plump woman with dark skin and nearly half my height. She believed that family and culture were the most important things in life and my mother never should have left Mexico. At my twelfth birthday party, when she had come up for reasons I’ll never fully understand, she insisted that we had Aztec ancestry and that I was denying it. A skinny young girl with olive skin in a room full of white, blond cheerleaders, I felt like I fit right in. But my Grandmother saw it differently. She asked me about Mexico, screaming at me in Spanish as I pretended not to understand, my friends staring, puzzled. I told them later that grandma had Turetts and that she was complimenting Gina’s hair when grandma had been pointing violently at her with her stubby, fat fingers. I didn’t have the heart to tell her that in fact my sweet old grandma from Mexico had been calling her the spawn of Cortes and promising to laugh at her family’s burning corpses in the afterlife. After that, vowed to disown her, and I’m sure she had been thinking the same thing.
On June 4th, I arrived in Cozumel and took a bus three hours to Tulum, where my grandparents lived. I was shocked when I was greeted with loving kissing and hugs from both grandparents, as if they were welcoming me back home. Grandma looked the same as I had remembered; the only clue that I was at the right house.
The first week at my grandmother’s house was spent investigating the nearby town and trying to understand the Spanish words that I hadn’t learned growing up in Chicago. I had never been to Mexico before, despite the fact that most of my family lived here. My Dad was 100% Irish and his family lived less than a mile from our house. I had a wonderfully normal grandmother who spoke English and made Christmas cookies just down the street, leaving no reason to travel 10,000 miles to be chastised for speaking English.
With three months perpetually ahead of me, I would walk into town at noon on a dirt road that ended after two blocks. I would buy a few bags of chips and a can of coke from a grocery the size of a gas station and sit on the side of the road, watching people busily walking out of a house and into another, out of that one and into a store, repeating. The houses all seemed to be pretty much the same, including the one I was living in. They were all one story with flat roofs. The outsides were white, or had been at one time, but were now beige from the road’s dry dust or wet mud, depending on the weather. I did this for almost an hour everyday. In the after noon my grandma would make me stand in the kitchen with her while she made dinner. Somehow everything was made up of sour cheese and corn. Corn tortillas, corn flour in everything, and sometimes just plain corn.
One night, while I watched her mixing things with her hands and adding strange ingredients from various bags of dried vegetables, she called me over to “help.” I could tell she needed no help at all, but that this was an excuse to grind some culture into me. In the corner was a large stone platform with a wide curve in the middle. I pulled it over to the center of the floor and she showed me how to get down on my knees, kneeling in front of the curve. Then she grabbed something heavy from the table next to us and began grinding the two together in an exaggerated scraping motion. It looked almost like she was washing clothes.
“This is how you make tortillas” She said, proudly. She poured dried corn kernels on the platform and began grinding them with the small stone pestle in a large graceful motion. Then she handed the stone to me and left me with the job of grinding. I watched the kernels turn from yellow to white and become powdery and starchy. I kept adding corn until I had ground about 2 cups and stopped. Grandma looked down at my work and motioned to keep going. I ground for another 10 minutes until she decided I was done. Then she showed me how to mix the flour with water and knead the dough with my hands. I was awkward but she was patient. Grandpa walked in just as we set the tortillas in oil and we ate soon after. I was proud of my work for the day, even though grandpa only ate one tortilla instead of his usual 3.
By the second week, my grandmother began forcing me to learn about my family as well. She didn’t work, so while my grandfather was gone during the day, we would walk around the town and have soda’s with every surrounding neighbor.
Grandma: This is my granddaughter, Isabel
Me: Hello
Mrs. Someone: Hello, Isabel. Have you met your cousin ‘ blank’?
Me: I have a cousin?
Mrs. Someone: Um…
My grandmother always seemed embarrassed by my familial ignorance. I hoped she would eventually stop dragging me around and I could just sit on the side of the road and wait for august. Unfortunately, her vivacious desire to educate me was matched only by my reluctance. I was given tortilla duty every night at dinner. Starting at 7:30 she’d walk into my room, where I was usually writing letters home, push the door wide open, and walk away. This meant it was tortilla time. I would silently walk into the kitchen gather my pestle, corn, and a blanket to kneel on, and grind corn for 15 minutes. After 3 days I began having cramps in my arms, but soon that passed, along with the abraisions on my hands and my quiet complaining. Three more weeks and she didn’t even come and get me anymore. At 7:30 I’d get up, even without looking at the clock, and prepare the tortillas. One night I spotted grandma looking down at me and smiling before she quickly turned to face the stove. I pretended not to notice, but that was the night when I realized grandpa was eating my tortillas.
6 weeks into the summer, grandma and I began speaking. Not often, but the thick resentment between us was starting to thin. Not long after I noticed this, she came into my at 5:50 in the morning whispering softly something I didn’t understand. I slowly got up to get dressed while she ran out of the room. After about ten minutes, I was dressed and mostly awake. She was packing lunches it seemed, a tortilla with pure white cheese melted inside, a bowl of black beans and white farmers cheese. Roughly the same thing we had eaten for dinner last night and every night before. I’m not sure if she new how to make anything else. She grabbed a few dried tomato slices from a wooden shelf protruding from the window and thrust a bag in my direction. Then she walked towards the car as I followed her.
We didn’t talk as she drove into the sunlight ahead of us. Soon the cold dew on the window was gone and dust slowly began to grow under our tires. A comfortable silence continued between us as I watched her focus on the road, then the trees around us, and when the trees around the road thickened, the sky. An hour or more passed like this before she pulled over on the side of the road and turned off the car.
“Come with me.” She said.
We walked through a wood unlike any I had seen in Chicago. The tops of the trees were no higher than 10 feet and each one touched every tree around it. Yet, the trunks were far enough apart that it felt as it I was in a green box. The sun hit the ground is strangely shaped spots which I examined thoroughly as I followed grandma deeper among the trees. She stopped at the foot of a tree that was about twice as tall as I. Large green pods hung from the tree like independent bananas, though they were nearly as long as my forearm and more than twice as thick. She grabbed one and twisted it off with a yanking motion.
“A thousand years ago, our people picked these. This is the Cacao tree and the beans in this pod make a sacred drink.”
I took the pod from her with concentrated diligence and turned it in my hand to examine it’s other sides. One long streak was pale yellow while the rest remained vibrant lime green.
Together we walked on the doughy ground as she pointed out the cacao trees and I marveled at the increasing sizes of their seedpods. At some point during the day we sat on a dead tree trunk that was rotting on the ground and ate the food we had packed. I hadn’t realized how hungry I was until I smelled the food we had packed and excitedly devoured everything. The white, sour cheese was cool in my mouth and the tortilla was sweet and hard. I craved the tomato, and when I mixed the flavors together, they seemed to combine and create a new food different from them all.
After lunch, grandma took my hand placed it on one of the three pods we had picked. With a swift jerk, she struck the tree trunk so that the pod exploded into the air, but all I felt on my hand was the soft, even pressure of hers. When I turned my hand over, I saw five tan seeds with velvety, smooth sides.
“These are cacao seeds. This is what people make chocolate from, but they mean more than that, and I will show you. When I was young, my grandmother showed me how to make Xocoatl and now I’ll show you. All you need is the seeds from these pods. When they dry, I will show you the next step. Gather a few more pods and put the seeds in your bag. When you have more than you can hold in two hands, we’ll drive home.”
For the first time in my memory, I noticed a distinct feeling of pride blooming in my stomach. No one in Chicago had ever seen these foreign-looking green pods; it was if they were created solely for me. Together we gathered 8 more pods and extracted the seeds with increasingly efficient whacks. Every movement was accompanied by a laugh and glance.
We drove home again in silence, but not a hollow silence like before. The air around us was filled with newness and experience. We had both experienced something for the first time, and took comfort in knowing it was only possible with each other.
At home, we cleared the tomatoes from the window and placed seeds all along the sill and in the sunniest places of the brief front stoop. Together we ventured outside every morning, anxiously awaiting the day when the smooth, tan skin of the husks would become shriveled and brown.
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